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To assert your own artistic and cultural bona fides through, say, standout loafers, artsy glasses, or head-to-toe black “projects a sense of being in control,” says one woman who started her career at the blue-chip Chelsea gallery where she is now the director (she preferred to speak anonymously; whether it’s art prices or wardrobe choices, the gallery world thrives on discretion). “That was important to me in the early days, when you’re expected to carry out your daily tasks while sitting in the middle of a very public space.” (Indeed, interrupting a call with your landlord, say, to inform him the rent will be late in order to accept your boss’s lunch delivery from Nobu requires statement armor that can also function as an invisibility cloak.) There will always be galleristas who lust after the latest Gucci bag or gravity-defying skirt from Comme des Garçons, but most rely on a pantheon of quieter indie labels. Think of Apiece Apart’s stripes for resort, which bear a resemblance to the geometric paintings of Mark Grotjahn; or A Détacher’s spring 2018 collection, which included a marbled pattern that could pass for Jackson Pollock’s studio floor and a sweatshirt with Cy Twombly–esque scribbles. To “belong” here means not to peacock, but to complement the environment. Designers’ interpretation of the art gallery look isn’t always quite so literal, of course; by and large, the gallery girl knows it’s best to leave the art on the wall. Which is why nearly every woman who ever sat in a midgallery Eames swivel chair rhapsodizes about the godmother of GG style, Rachel Comey. Jayne Johnson, director of New York gallery Peter Freeman, raves about the designer’s “relaxed silhouettes, wonderful prints, and comfortable shoes.” Comey’s spring 2018 collection epitomizes her art world appeal: Swishy fringe balances a neutral palette; a mottled mesh blouse streaked with silver paint is paired with simple black trousers; a painterly print is rendered in an easy, almost casual strapless dress. The gallery girl’s wardrobe secret, according to Min: The look is “consistently unique, but I don’t think it changes very much.” Perhaps the embodiment of that school of thought is the Maison Margiela blazer, with its cinched silhouette and its insider status symbol, the tiny embroidered line between the shoulder blades. “Like artwork, the Margiela jacket is discreet and exclusive,” says Danielle Forest, an assistant at Marian Goodman Gallery in midtown Manhattan (near Peggy Guggenheim’s old stamping ground!).
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